Few dishes are as primal as tartare. It's beloved from the mezze tables of Beirut where kibbeh nayyeh combines lamb, bulgur, herbs, and olive oil, to the French bistros in every major city where countless yolk-anointed mounds of beef and finely diced pickles are churned out every day. Between shopping and chopping à la minute, this no-cook recipe may be tedious but is totally doable at home (and worth it!).
12 Tartare Variations, From Classic Steak to Unconventional Avocado
Frequently asked questions
How do you safely make great tartare at home?
"Typically, this is a dish that people enjoy when dining out, but are afraid to prepare at home," says butcher Jason Yang. If you didn't grow up with tartare at home then you might approach the process with some trepidation, but starting with high-quality meat is the first thing you can do to ensure success. It's best to get meat directly from a specialized butcher, not a supermarket where the risk of contamination is higher.
It's important to start with a whole piece of meat rather than something ground, since "properly handled whole muscles have a much lower risk of pathogens," Yang says, and running the meat through a grinder is a potential source of contamination from other cuts.
How do you cut the meat for steak tartare?
Keep the meat cold in the fridge until you are ready to prepare it. You want about four ounces of beef per person for an appetizer and eight ounces for a meal. Starting with a sharp knife and an impeccably clean cutting board, your goal is to cut the meat into fine, even cubes. Working with about half a pound at a time, start by making long slices against the grain, then cut into strips and then cubes, Take care not to over-process the meat, especially when working with filet.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
Dark green leek tops, often discarded, become the base of this punchy gremolata. The smoked oyster aïoli adds muscle and brightness, and it’s easy to make (it takes about a minute in a blender). Tartare calls for the best-quality meat; you’ll eat it raw, so go for the good stuff — rib eye or flatiron is a nice way to go. To get a perfectly diced steak for tartare, freeze the beef until it is just firm, about 15 minutes, before slicing.
